Duffle Coat – Final

I spent most of yesterday experimenting with different ways to make the toggles (good thing I had lots of leather in my stash!). I finally decided to copy the toggles from Burda Style.

First, I made my own leather cording. I cut 1″ wide strips of leather with a rotary cutter and quilting ruler.

cord1

I folded them in half and edgestitched along the fold before trimming away the excess (oops, I forgot to photograph that step but you get the idea).

cord2

cord3

For the patch (I’m sure it has a name but I don’t know what it is), I cut a 1.75″ by 3″ piece of leather and punched a hole in the center of one side with my trusty old revolving leather punch.

patch

Thread the toggles onto the cord and pull the cord ends through the hole of the patch. Secure the cord ends to the back of the patch and then trim off the excess.

toggles

stitched

For extra security and to make them easier to handle during sewing, I glued the patch together with Tandy leather glue (my favorite!). Lastly, I coated all of the raw edges with Edgekote. The Edgekote isn’t a must but I like the way it finishes the edges.

glued

edgekoted

It’s a beautiful, crisp winter’s day here in Florida so I thought I’d photograph the coat outside. I love this coat so much that I definitely want to make another, shorter version.

togglefull

Here’s the back of the lining,

backlining

and the front. This lining is very pretty (and Burberry-esque!) but it was awful to work with – soooo ravelly.

frontlining

My next project is a lambskin jacket but I don’t know how much, if anything, I will get done this week. I’ll feel great if I get the pattern fitted and maybe cut out a test garment but I’m not going to stress about it.

Parting shot: Bryan insists on trying to dress up the kitties. Last year, he put a doggie Christmas dress on Ricki! Mrs. Whiskers is here to tell you she doesn’t like it. Silly man!

santawhiskers

Merry Christmas!

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38 Comments

Filed under Burda WOF, Tutorials, Year of the Jacket

38 responses to “Duffle Coat – Final

  1. Beautiful coat! Thanks for showing us how you made your toggles.

  2. The coat looks great! I’ve been seeing toggle coats everywhere lately!

  3. Wow, your coat turned out beautifully – I’d be proud to sport it up here in the frozen north (SW Ontario)!

    P.S. Boy, does your kitty looked pissed – hilarious!

  4. It’s beautiful Gigi .

  5. So nice! I love the toggles (and your machine :-) Thanks for sharing.

  6. Wow – this is hardcore! Amazing job. I can’t even imagine making my own toggles. (Maybe with time…:-))

  7. See now you must come to Boston so I can see it in person in the right environment! I love it.

  8. Thanks for the tutorial on sewing toggles. You did a wonderful job on the coat and the toggles. Wear it proudly.

    Christiana
    sewamusing.blogspot.com

  9. Your Duffle Coat is superb! I love the toggle-info. too, for a novice like me I could steal that idea to use on a satchel for my hoardes of stuff I carry to/from work everyday . Thank you for sharing :)

  10. Now THAT is how a toggle coat is done. Great job, Gigi!!!

  11. Lindsay T

    If you go to Boston you may as well stop in NYC, ’cause I wanna see it too. Fabulous!

  12. Hatty

    They are perfect but I don’t think my machine would go through two layers of leather. What kind of machine do you have? Did you go through the lining too when you stitched them on?

    • I used a Consew 206RB to sew the cording and a vintage Singer 15-91 (home machine) to attach the toggles.

      I was going to sew the toggles on through all layers but couldn’t because of the welt pocket. I sewed through two layers of leather, one layer of coating and two layers of heavy cut-away embroidery stabilizer. I used Gutermann topstitching thread and a size 18 needle.

  13. Rosie

    Purrfection! Winnie is not a happy camper in this picture.

  14. It’s stunning Gigi! Thanks for showing how the toggles were made. I have to tell you that I’m in awe of this jacket because it’s better than RTW. It’s just awesome!

  15. Very nice! I’m especially happy to see how you made the toggles as I want to make the short version of this jacket sometime.

  16. Merry Christmas Gigi! Beautiful coat!!

  17. Dotty Ivey

    Gigi,
    Another beautiful project. Your work is so inspiring! Congratulate Bryan on the St. Thomas championship!
    Dotty

  18. Summerset

    Just fabulous; the toggles are perfect! It doesn’t look nearly as big as the line drawing, I could go for a coat like this. Maybe I do need another casual coat in my life . . .

    Oh, that cat does NOT look happy about the costume.

  19. Remnant

    Beautiful! I love the pockets, the toggles – well, EVERYTHING. It is beautiful!

  20. Oh, that coat is gorgeous! Are you sure you’re really going to need that in FL? Don’t you think it would have a better home in Buffalo?!! I love it. I have some beautiful coating wool from Gorgeous Fabrics that might have to be made into that coat! Thanks for the great instructions.

  21. Very nice coat! Brian is likely to receive a “gift” from Winnie in return for that hat!

  22. What a beautiful, inspiring coat. And yes, the toggle pics are so helpful. I have brass toggles that I would like to use someday and will definitely refer back to your great details.

  23. I love your coat! You are right in style. I’m seeing toggle coats everywhere. Thanks for showing how to make to make toggles. Kitty looks so cute dressed up for Christmas even though she’s not happy about it!! Merry Christmas to you!!

  24. That is an amazing coat! Very professional. I like the toggles. Love the cut of the coat. You did terrific sewing job!

  25. Kim

    I am sadly no longer happy with any toggle fastenings I have made. However, I am really glad you showed how to do it right!
    Enjoy your lovely coat.

  26. Susannah

    Your coat is superb! Thank you too for the toggle instructions. Yours look much better than the ready made ones. It is amazing how much disdain a cat can convey with a single look…

  27. Your coat looks fantastic. I love the toggels and the inserts. Amazing work!

  28. You are amazing. Love the coat and the toggles are fantastic!

  29. Great result. I’m so impressed that you made your own toggles!

  30. RobbieK

    I am in awe!

  31. Rose

    Seriously fabulous! Gosh, I wish I could sew like you. You are a true artist and craftswoman.

  32. jennifer

    You continually amaze me with your formidable abilities!! The jacket is amazing. One seriously ticked off cat, but an adorable photo.

  33. vernonfashionstudio

    Love this coat. I think it is my fovorite of all you have made this year. Thanks for taking us on this outerwear journey this year. Merry Christmas!

  34. Bev

    Great coat!. Thanks, Gigi for all the great lessons and hard work you put into your site this year. I think the most important thing I have learned from you is that the fabrics provide more lessons in sewing than the patterns. Have a great Christmas and New Year.

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  36. Just beathtaking. Wow!