I was hoping to finish up today but after working in the hot sun laying sod yesterday, I am just too tired! Sewing while tired is never good so I will leave the rest for another day.
As I was constructing and attaching the collar, I thought some of you might like to see how I do this as it’s a little different from the way most patterns suggest. This jacket has a really lovely collar on a stand that is actually attached the same way one would attach a convertible collar when there is no yoke to enclose the neck edge.
Before I begin, I like to shape my collar around a ham. I steam it, shape it and allow it to cool.
Next, I sew the outer stand to the jacket, leaving the inner stand free. Notice that I’ve reduced my SAS to 1/4″. Smaller SAS, either 1/4″ or 3/8″ are much easier to sew accurately and you won’t need to trim them later.
Then, the front facing is stitched on through all layers. Stop your stitching and backtack about 1″ or so from the shoulder seam.
Clip through all layers. (Can you see I’ve been playing around with my new Photoshop, lol?)
Turn out the facing, push all of the seam allowances between the clips up into the collar,
and neatly close the collar by machine. Easy, even in this bulky fabric.
As I said, this is a really lovely collar! I may try adding this type of collar the next time I make a convertible collar blouse.
The jacket is finished except for the buttons, buttonholes and pocket flaps. I had to take 3.25″ off the length. Because I’m only 5’3″, I found a shorter length more flattering for me. I also had to take in 1/2″ through the hip at the side seams because I’m not as curvy as the pattern. Oddly, I thought the sleeve cap didn’t have enough height so I simply slipped it out about 1/4″ at the shoulder tapering to nothing 2″ on either side (I’ll add more height to the cap next time). I know this still looks a bit DTD, but I assure you, it isn’t quite this shiny in real life!
To offset the sparkle of the fabric, I have chosen some matte-finish pewter tack buttons that I bought in NYC a few years ago.