HP Deneuve Tuxedo Shirt – Part I

I managed to get everything cut out yesterday. I had the hardest time deciding on fabric but finally chose this hot pink Irish linen that’s been in my stash *forever*. I read through the instructions for the bib last week when the pattern arrived and couldn’t quite wrap my head around it (which is not at all unusual for me). But, once I started sewing, the diagrams made perfect sense. Trudy is such a genius, the bib looks like it will be a little fussy but it couldn’t be easier!

The bib is fully lined so, since my fabric is lightweight, I used self-fabric. Now, the instructions advise you to interface the bib lining – I did not because I wanted a softer look. Whether you interface or not will depend on the fabric you choose. I only interfaced the collar, button band and cuffs.

Just so you understand the construction, here are some photos of the right front (the overlap). First, the right front is sewn to the right front lining piece with the button strip sandwiched in between. Naturally, you’ll want to make your buttonholes first.

Then, the collar is inset into the entire bib/bib lining unit. The seam is then graded, clipped and pressed towards the collar. You can’t see it very well but you are looking at the back side of the button strip which has been pressed over the bib itself (the bib lining is on the right).

The left edge of the button strip (as shown below) is the hidden placket fold line so, once the collar neckline edge has been sewn, the covered placket is automatically formed.

Then the collar is folded RS together and stitched along the neckline and turned (the shoulder edges will be caught in the yoke later). The pattern instructions call for securing the collar edges together by stitching in the ditch but I edgestitched all around instead.

Here is the completed left front (the underlap), which is sewn the same way. The buttons haven’t been sewn on yet. The pattern calls for five buttons on the band and one on the collar but I only had five in total so I improvised. Both sides are completely clean-finished inside and out – just beautiful and so simple!

Parting shot: The Brassavola orchid is blooming today! I think it is really happy with it’s new home under the newly-pruned firebush.