I woke up yesterday wanting to make a jacket. It’s been very cold so I guess I had the sudden urge to work with wool. I picked up this Palmer/Pletsch pattern about a month ago. It’s not something I’d ordinarily choose as I prefer fitted clothing for the most part. But, when I saw Pati Palmer modeling it in the last PP newsletter, I fell in love with it. It’s good to try something new once in awhile!
I wear a lot of jeans so I wanted something that would look pretty with denim. I’ve had this wool/lycra suiting from Fashion Sewing Group in my stash for a few years (maybe six?) and thought it would look fabulous with the faux tortoise-shell snaps I ordered from Pacific Trimming a few months ago. The lining is a silk/lycra charmeuse of unknown origin. What could be nicer than a silk lining?
I cut out the pattern and fitted it this evening. Because of the easy fit of this jacket I only needed a small (5/8″) full bust adjustment. I also made my usual alterations: shorten sleeves 1″ and 5/8″ forward shoulder. I skipped the sway-back adjustment since there’s a large inverted pleat at the back and everything hung just fine without it. Interestingly, I never, ever have to make a high-round adjustment but the back neckline wasn’t quite coming up to the base of my neck so I made a 1/4″ alteration there.
Tomorrow, I will cut and interface the fabric and cut out the lining. It’s been awhile since I worked with wool so I’m really looking forward to this project.