Anna Sui Silk Peasant Blouse II

I dreamt about this blouse all night, mostly about the sleeves. Happily, I had a little free time today and was able to get them finished. I had already planned out which part of the coordinate I’d be using as a hem band. I chose an area that had black at the top so that the French seam would not show through the chiffon. Because the fabric is so sheer, using a doubled band wasn’t possible.

The bottom of the sleeve is curved so I slightly eased the straight band at the seam.

band

I had planned to use a simple narrow hem but then I thought, why not make it a little more special with a bias binding? I cut the binding 1 3/8″ wide and used my 1 1/4″ binder. Because the fabric is so silky, I knew it would narrow a bit as it went through. Once you master your sewing machine attachments (practice, practice, practice) they make your life so easy! I bound both sleeve hems in less than 10 minutes, including cutting the bias.

binder

bindigndetail

All of this work was done flat and then a French seam was sewn at the underarm. Here’s the finished product:

finishedsleeve

Next I’ll be figuring out how to incorporate more of the coordinating fabric onto the bodice. The sheerness of the fabric complicates everything just a little bit!

Parting Shot: My best friends just returned from Europe and, knowing how much I love this sort of thing, brought me back some hand-made soaps they found in an open-air market. It smells heavenly and it’s wrapped in the Nice sports page!

soaps

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15 Comments

Filed under Fabric, New Look

15 responses to “Anna Sui Silk Peasant Blouse II

  1. That is a great addition to the blouse. I should look to see if I have an attachment for my Bernina for binding. A smart idea.

  2. Jan Flaherty

    My, my, my, now I have lots of questions. I hope you’ll find some time to answer but if not I understand and please just keep sewing, and posting because well, my how beautiful. And before I forget are those little yellow birds on a wire? How wonderful.
    Is this the same pattern as the last peasant blouses? I think it is, so did you modify the sleeve pattern yourself? When you say you eased the band at the seam, I’m trying to imagine how you did that. Is the band piece a rectangle and the bottom of the raglan sleeve curved? If so, did you ease stitch the band by putting your finger behind the needle as you stitch or do you have a different method? Do you use regular thread with this slippery fabric, what about your needle? Thanks, I really love your blog. The soap is beautiful too.

    • Hahaha, Jan, I hadn’t even realized they were birds on a wire until you pointed it out to me! I guess I was too busy concentrating on other things to notice. 🙂

      Yes, this is the same pattern. I was going to use a different one but I like this one so much and it’ll look so different in this fabric that I doubt anyone else will notice.

      I just sort of eased the rectangular band on as I sewed by slightly stretching the sleeve itself (which is off-grain). That was enough to get a slight curve in the band. I think using the ease-plus (finger behind the foot) method might end up gathering the fabric too much in something this lightweight.

      I’m using my favorite lightweight thread for this project: Coats & Clarks Fine Thread (formerly called machine embroidery thread). The needle is a Schmetz Microtex size 70/10.

      HTH!

  3. I really like that sleeve border! And those shades of pink & yellow are just lovely together. 🙂

  4. The sleeve is awesome but I like how well thought out the project is…it is going to be a stunning blouse!

  5. I am totally in love with this blouse before it is even finished. Or is it the fabric? Is this fabric available online anywhere? I live in Australia.

  6. Sally

    Boy, your sewing skills are surely awesome! And the top is going to be a stunner!!! Is this bias binder on an industrial or a regular domestic machine–i.e. can you get the same results with an attachment for a Bernina, Pfaff, etc., etc., etc.? TIA, Sally

    • Sally, this is the Bernina binder but I also use industrial binders. They are the same but the Bernina binders are ridiculously expensive! Most domestic machines do not have attachment holes in the bed and so aren’t able to use plate binders. I have not had the same success with binding feet but then I haven’t used them very much either.

  7. Lindsay T

    Gigi, have you seen the book The Sewing Machine Attachment Handbook? I have it and may review it one of these days. I thought of you when I first saw it because it mostly applies to attachments you can use on older model machines.

    • I don’t have that book – YET. 🙂 I do need to get it because I love using my old attachments in addition to commercial attachments. I’m all about easy!

  8. THAT will be an incredible blouse Gigi! And I can smell tteh spao from here. It must make the best lather…

  9. I love how you’ve eased the band. Slick! This is a gorgeous bit of fabric artistry

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