New Look 6648

It’s done and I LOVE it! I think this is a great way for a petite to wear volume because it’s not too overwhelming. I cut my usual size 8 but may go down to a 6 next time depending on the fabric that I use. You just want to make sure the band is not snug because it will continually want to ride up your midriff. Other than that this top is generously sized. I did not need an FBA or any other alterations - what a luxury!

As you can see, I made a few changes from the pattern. I lowered the neckline a little in the front and added an exposed facing to mimic the designer top. Beware, the neckline is even wider than it appears in the pattern photo. I’ll definitely bring it in a little next time. Also, lingerie guards are a must with a top like this because it will want to slide off one shoulder all the time without them.

I also added some wide bands at the sleeve like the original. I cut my bands 6″ wide which gave me a 2.75″ finished width. I wanted them 3″ wide but this is all the fabric I had left due to a very stupid cutting error! Thank goodness I always buy plenty of fabric otherwise the whole thing would have ended up in the trash. Anyway, I trimmed 2.5″ off the sleeve (2.75″ finished band width minus 1/4″ seam allowance) to retain the original length.

Hop on over to The Sewing Divas to see how I sewed the facing and sleeve bands.

ETA: Doh! I didn’t even mention the hem band! I’ll do an edit tomorrow.

Binding Mini-Tutorial

As promised, the mini-tutorial is up on the Sewing Divas site.

Banded Surplice Neckline Tutorial

The banded surplice neckline tutorial for the HP Cosmopolitan Dress is up at The Sewing Divas! Here’s the LINK.

Elasticated Blindstitched Neckline

The tutorial is up! Here’s a link: TSD tutorial.

A Sew-Along it is!

Several people have mentioned that it would be fun to take the weekly designer-inspiration piece and have a sew-along! I love that idea! I am going to host the sew-along over at The Sewing Divas. I’ll be using the Hot Patterns Plain & Simple Tee as the base for several designer tops. You can use it or another tried-and-true basic tee pattern.

It will take me a few days to get the materials together so hang in there!

Tutorial: Convertible Collar with Yoke

A few days ago I was asked to republish the convertible collar tutorial that I had on my now-defunct GigiSews.com site - here it is! As always, it’s so much easier to use 1/4″ seam allowances in this area. Your stitching will be easier, more accurate and you won’t have to trim. Here, I am using Kwik-Sew 2935 which includes 1/4″ seam allowances throughout.

I’ve increased the seam allowances in some areas (the side seams and sometimes the armscye) to give me the option of using flat-felled seams or even plain seams, depending on the project. There’s nothing wrong with using a 1/4″ throughout but I think that larger seam allowances and other seam finishes add more perceived value to the garment. Still, all of your enclosed seams should be 1/4″ - always, IMO.

With the exception of the collar, do not press anything until the end.

Step 1: Construct the collar. I always put a large X with chalk on the undercollar so as not to mix them up.

Step 2: Construct the inner yoke/front facing unit. The inner edges of your facings should be finished in some manner. Here, I’ve simply turned in 1/4″ and edgestitched.

Step 3: Attach the outer yoke to the front and back sections.

Step 4: Sew the collar into the neckline with a 1/8″ seam (so that you won’t have to remove any stitching later). Once you get the hang of this you may be able to skip this step. I still do it because I’m not a big fan of pinning. Having the collar sewn into position gives me one less piece to keep an eye on. Make sure the under collar is next to the outer yoke before sewing.

Step 5: Attach the inner yoke/front facing unit to the shirt/collar unit. I often sew this in two steps, first stitching across the neckline/collar and then down the facings/front edges.

Step 6: Now you’ll need to sew the front yoke seam. Many pattern directions will tell you to slipstitch or topstitch this seam. I sew it by machine from the inside. Hold the raw edges together as they should be sewn and fold the shirt inside. The outer edges will be easy, it gets trickier as you get close to the neckline. You only need to concern yourself with stitching just past the facing edge - don’t worry about getting right up to the neckline because you won’t be able to.

Step 7: I’m sorry (again) for the blurriness of this photo. This is the front yoke seam pinned and ready to sew.

Step 8: Once this seam is sewn you will have a small unsewn area next to the collar. I just leave it as is. If it bothers you, you can certainly sew it up by hand - if you’ll be edgestitching the yoke that will take care of it as well.

Step 9: Lay the shirt out flat, right side up, with the front facing you. Roll the back of the shirt up into the outer yoke area.

Step 10: Pull the fronts off to the side and bring the inner yoke around to meet the outer yoke.

Step 11: Here’s what it will look like - ready to be sewn.

Step 12: Turn everything right side out. Now you can press!

Finished! A nice, neat collar/yoke area completely finished by machine.

My hunky model. Notice that the design matches across the button opening. I always think that’s a nice touch - and it’s so very easy. Material for a future tutorial?

Coverstitching over serged seams

Coverhemming over a bulky serged seam is easy! I’ve been using this method for years. Don’t be afraid to clip close to the seamline - I haven’t lost a seam yet.

Before turning up the hem, clip to the seamline at the foldline.

Then, turn the hem seam allowance in the opposite direction of the garment seam allowance before turning up the hem.

This will give you a nice smooth seam to stitch over.

Best of all, you won’t have all of those tiny, crooked stitches on either side of the seamline!

Block fusing

I have been block fusing my interfacing for years - ever since I bought my first press about ten years ago. Six years ago, I purchased an industrial heat press for my business and became spoiled by it’s large 16×20 fusing area. You certainly don’t need a press for fusing but it does make the job easier and faster.

Why block fuse? I think it’s easier, faster and more accurate. No more fiddling with wiggly facing pieces and comparing them to the pattern to make sure they haven’t been stretched or distorted. I also always hate cutting out the interfacing pieces, blech. Additionally, you don’t have to worry about whether the interfacing shrunk during the fusing process.

To begin, I lay a Teflon sheet over my pressing surface. If my interfacing is a little larger than my fabric I don’t have to worry about getting the glue on my silicone pad.

Next, I lay the fabric face down on the Teflon sheet making sure the fabric is on grain. The rectangular surface helps me line everything up. I then lay the interfacing glue side down onto the fabric and mist the interfacing lightly with water.

Lastly, I cover the interfacing with another Teflon sheet and close the press for 10 seconds. Once the fabric has cooled, I turn the fabric over and repeat this process.

Then, I am ready to cut!

Decorative Elastic Finish

Now that so many of you have coverstitch machines, I thought I’d rerun this tutorial from 2001. This is a very easy and neat (yes, I love my sewing to be neat and tidy!) way to finish a knit. I’d originally titled this the Picot Elastic Finish but there are so many types of decorative elastic available today that I felt it necessary to change the title. We normally think of this finish as being used in lingerie but it works equally well on the necklines and armholes of street clothes. Here I’ve used a ruffled elastic to finish the edges of the Loes Hinse Tank. Not only does it look nice it’s also very quick and easy!

The first thing you’ll want to do is check the seam allowances. They should be equal to the width of your elastic (not counting the decorative edge). If your elastic has a very wide decorative edge, you might consider trimming the neckline down. Otherwise, the finished opening will be a bit smaller - not really a problem on a deep neckline but it could be uncomfortable on a jewel neck or at the underarm.

Next, you’ll need to sew up one shoulder seam - I usually sew up the right side first. Then you will serge the elastic to the edge right sides together. It isn’t necessary to stretch the elastic. Instead, apply it in a 1:1 ratio. When you turn the elastic inside you will be turning a smaller circle (the cut edge) into a larger one (the body of the garment) so gaping will not be a problem.

Then, simply turn the elastic to the inside and coverstitch along the edge from the right side.
Lastly, you will sew up the remaining shoulder seam. I also like to tack the seam allowance down with a few straight stitches to keep it in place.

The finished product:

If you are finishing armholes on a sleeveless garment you will go ahead and do that now while the side seams are unsewn.

Collar on stand - Part 2

Today we are going to finish up the band. Pin the outer band onto the inner band, right sides together. As you can see in the photograph, I have carefully tucked the front edge of the shirt up into the bands. This will allow me to stitch around for a nice neat front edge. I’m normally not big on pinning but, in this case, it helps to keep the layers in position.

Here is where your accuracy in attaching the inner band will pay off. I begin my stitching about 3/4″ in from the front edge (or as much as the fabric will allow - sometimes more, sometimes a little less) and pivot exactly where my previous stitching ends.

Always check to make sure you haven’t accidentally caught anything you shouldn’t have in your stitching before trimming.

I simply cut across the corner and then trim the curve with pinking shears. When using 1/4″ seam allowances, it isn’t necessary to do any additional trimming.

The front edge is nice and neat from the outside.

And from the inside.

The last step is to edge stitch around the band, closing up the remaining neck edge at the same time.

That’s it! This entire process, with practice, should take you no more than a few minutes and will give you a great result every time. I hope you’ll give it a try.