Category Archives: Hot Patterns

HP Deneuve Tuxedo Shirt – Take Three (Part I)

Good morning readers! Well, let’s first get the obvious out of the way: yes, I’ve been gone for awhile but nothing’s wrong. In fact, everything’s right because I finally, finally, finally got a JOB! Yes, I am once again among the gainfully employed – woohoo! It’s a little tough getting used to a set schedule once again but it’s getting easier every week. This past Sunday I was actually able to spend a couple of hours in my sewing room. I know that’s not a lot but it was very therapeutic. Thanks again to all of you who emailed to check on me during my absence, I’m quite flattered. :-)

Sooooooo, when I went into my sewing room last weekend I thought I’d work on the dress pattern I’d been altering. But, I just didn’t feel like working on that so I pulled out one of my summer favorites, the HP Metropolitan Deneuve Tuxedo Shirt. I’ve made two already and every time I wear one I wish I had a couple more. It’s hot as blazes right now and I can barely stand to have anything touch me so this cool but chic tunic fits the bill.

I bought this Irish linen at Maggi’s For Fine Fabrics about 15 or 16 years ago so I thought it was high time I did something with it. Since it has a woven stripe I decided to cut the bib on the bias for interest. I eliminated the placket and will use bias ties instead (like I did on my heirloom version).

fronts

I used Japanese straight tape to stabilize the front edge and the shoulders. At the front edge, I simply cut it in half with the rotary cutter so it would be hidden under my binding.

stayedfronts

Then it was just a matter of running the front edges through my 1 1/4″ binding attachment and then running the neckline through. If you don’t have a binding attachment, you would simply use your trusty Clover bias tape maker.

binding1

To make the ties, I started binding at the shoulder and then just ran the excess length through the binder.

binding2

The ties are very long so I will cut them down later. Stay tuned!

binding3

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The Year of the Jacket 2010 – in Review

I will probably finish one more jacket yet before the end of the year but I thought it would be fun to look back at what I have already completed. I know some people were concerned about joining the Stitcher’s Guild sew-along for 2011 because they thought they’d have to make 12 tailored, lined jackets – not so! While I love making them, they are not really wearable here during the warmer months. A jacket can be as complicated as a notch-collared style with welts and hand padstitching or as simple as a linen shirt jacket or jean jacket. There are no rules so join in – the more the merrier!

January

#1 McCall’s 5984
blueboucle

February

#2 McCall’s 5984
redboucle

April

#3 Simplicity 2443
violetlinen

May

#4 Simplicity 2443 (modified)
whitepique

#5 Simplicity 7715 (vintage)
redwindbreaker

#6 Simplicity 2443 (modified)
tealpique

June

#7 McCall’s 5860
jeanjacket

September

#8 McCall’s 5635 (modified)
anorak

October

#9 Simplicity 5440 (vintage, modified)
isabelmarant

#10 Hot Patterns Riviera Blvd. Jacket
riviera

November

#11 Simplicity 4109
corduroyjacket

December

#12 Simplicity 2508
velvetcoat

#13 Burda Style 10/2009 #109
duffle coat

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Filed under Burda WOF, Hot Patterns, McCall's, Simplicity, Vintage Patterns, Year of the Jacket

HP Mighty Aphrodite Draped T-Shirt

Another clear winner from HP! I fell in love with this pattern the moment I saw it. I love the asymmetrical draping, sleeves and the drawstring and was so thrilled to finally get it traced off last weekend.

patternenvelope

I made the short-sleeved asymmetrical sleeve version in a gorgeous purple rayon/lycra from, where else? Gorgeous Fabrics. I made my usual HP size 6 but skipped the FBA since I figured the draping added enough ease through the bust (it did). The sewing was pretty uneventful and went quickly. I did have an oops! moment when I realized that I forgot to make a broad back adjustment but, thankfully, the top is wearable.

The only thing I will change next time (besides the back alteration) is to not interface the entire back neck facing. Even though I used a knit interfacing with plenty of stretch, it still interfered with the stretch of the fabric enough that I went back and removed it. Needless to say, I fuse for life so it took quite awhile to heat/peel/heat/peel but I got it done and am happier with the result.

You can see that, even though the neckline is modest, this top definitely has a vavavoom quality to it. The ruching and draping are very flattering so this pattern will definitely go into the “favorites” file.

Leftside

rightside

For my 2nd version, I used a super-soft heathered oatmeal rayon/lycra (again, from Gorgeous Fabrics). This time, I used two plain sleeves because the fabric had a much more casual feeling to it.

oatmealaphrodite

I fused only the neckline and shoulder seams of the back facing as shown here. This worked out much better for me.

backneckfacing

What’s next on the agenda? Well, I am still on the hunt for the right shade of red poly chiffon for my Milly blouse (I must get it done before the holidays!) so I’m working on my silver brocade baseball jacket since I’ve assembled all of the supplies for it.

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HP Riviera Boulevard Cardigan Jacket

First, I have to say that I am so touched that you guys missed me! Believe me, I have missed you too! As some of you have speculated, I did not get a job, sigh. But, my sewing classes are going well so that makes me happy. I just love my students, they are so much fun that I look forward to class every week (as I hope they do!). Things have just been busy so I’ve been spending my precious spare time sewing rather than blogging.

I did finally finish my HP Riviera jacket and LOVE it! I’ve had this pattern since it first came out and am so mad at myself that I’m just now getting around to making it.

I used a yummy wool/lycra doubleknit that I bought from Nancy Erickson back in 2003. Oh, how I love working with wool! It practically sews itself. I did prewash this fabric by hand with Orvis (from the local feed store), air dried and then steamed thoroughly before cutting. I seriously doubt I’ll be hand washing this jacket but I could if I wanted to. The fab buttons came from Cynthia’s Fine Fabrics and I used Pro-Sheer Fusible interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply.

riviera

The jacket goes together very easily and quickly. The first thing I did was to construct the pocket flaps. The horizontal flaps are constructed as you normally would. Because my fabric was thick and spongy, I did all of my topstitching at 3/8″ vs. 1/4″ (which looked skimpy and cheap).

horizontalflaps

The vertical pockets are sewn on two sides only. The top is left open because it will be caught in the yoke seam later.

verticalflap

flaps

Pocket construction is very simple. First, the vertical flaps are stitched to the fronts:

front1

Then, the pocket bags are stitched on top of the flaps,

fronts2

so you end up with this:

fronts3

The other pocket bags are stitched to the side front:

sidefront

then the front and side front are sewn together at the top and down the lower front. Any topstitching alongside the pocket flap should be done now, before the pocket bags are sewn shut.

front4

Here’s the finished pocket (before pressing):

front5

Here it is pressed and topstitched. As I mentioned before, the area in front of the flap is topstitched before the pocket bags are closed up. Once the pockets are stitched up, the topstitching below the flap is completed.

fronts7

The body of the jacket has been put together. Now it’s time for the collar!

jacketbody

I know some people have expressed confusion over the HP collar but it’s really very, very easy. You are instructed to sew to the dot but I found it better to just keep on going all the way. I have done it both ways but prefer this way. The seam allowances have been trimmed and graded in this photo – I forgot to take one before I did that but you can use your imaginations. Please notice that I am not a Chicken Clipper!

collar1

I then pressed all three seams open over my trusty point presser

collar2

and then turned right side out.

collar3

I staystitched just inside the dot on the jacket front and clipped to the corner. Then, simply match up the two dots and stitch your inside corner.

collar4

Voila! Very easy!

collar5

Here is the jacket with the facing partially attached. I always attach it in two steps to make my life easier.

facingattached

I did make one small change to the pattern and that is to add a hem allowance rather than using facings. Mainly, I did that because I really wanted to have a mitered sleeve vent. If I was going to have a hem at the sleeve it stood to reason that I should have one on the jacket body as well. I didn’t take any photos of the sleeve construction because I figured everyone already knows how to miter a sleeve vent – and this post is already so long-winded!

sleevevent

Because my fabric is pretty stretchy, I had problems making horizontal buttonholes. I finally achieved success by fusing a 2nd piece of interfacing with the stable grain on the horizontal and cording the buttonhole. I only had cordonnet in white and black but red Pearl Crown Rayon came to the rescue and worked just fine. (Excuse the blue chalk, this is my sample.)

buttonholes

Wow, that was a very long post, wasn’t it? I’m sure it’s the longest I’ve ever done but that’s what I get for leaving it all until the end. I’m headed back to the sewing room to finish up my HP Mighty Aphrodite tee – I’ll write about that this weekend. Auf Wiedersehen!

10/16/10 ETA: I realized last night that I neglected to mention anything about sizing and fit – sorry! I sewed a straight size 6 (which I need through the shoulders) and needed no alterations except for my usual forward shoulder and a little extra width through the bicep (I blame you for that, Jackie Warner!). Shocking, but true.

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HP Kaleidoscope Top – Final!

Almost final, anyway. I still have to sew on the buttons and hem the bottom but I thought I’d go ahead and post it anyway.

As you can see, I decided to leave off the sleeve ruffles. They were just too overwhelming for someone my size.

kaleidoscopefinal

Changes I made:

*Shortened the upper bodice by 1″ (I’d take another 1/2″ off next time, I think)
*Omitted sleeve flounce
*Shortened front ruffle 11″ (could be because my fabric is so drapey)

Because my fabric is very lightweight, I didn’t have any problems with all of the layers around the neck. However, the ruffle does pull my facing down just a bit at the front despite my having removed some length from the facing to draw the neckline in.

Word of caution: if you are making the optional back darts (which I did), the back casing will end up being too long. Be sure to shorten that piece before joining it to the front casing sections.

Conclusion: This is a very cute top that works well in a lightweight fabric. Hemming the ruffles was quite laborious (I will try to cover that this week) so I’d just leave the raw edges if I made this again.

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HP Kaleidoscope Top – Part II

Today, I attached the neckline ruffles, collar and facing. The neckline ruffles were very long for me possibly because crepe de chine stretches so much on the bias. I shortened them 11″ and they are still considerably longer than the pattern illustration. Although I’ve already hemmed the sleeve ruffles, I may leave them off since there’s already a lot going on here for a little person.

upperbodice

I narrow-hemmed all of the ruffles which took an entire evening! Had I to do it again, I’d just leave the edges raw since they are mostly on the bias anyway.

ruffledetail

Here’s a close-up of the collar/ruffle.

collardetail

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HP Kaleidoscope Top – Part I

I am making the ruffled front version – it’s so me!

kaleidoscope

The top has been fitted, altered and cut – all my least favorite parts are over with. The fabric I am using is a silk crepe de chine that I bought when Cloth World closed it’s doors years ago. I bought three yards of every color they had and this is the last of it.

bluesilk

I’m off to have a quick bite of dinner and then head to the sewing room to hem these ruffles and continue watching Season 3 of McLeod’s Daughters. Hopefully, there will be some progress to report tomorrow!

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