New Look 6454, The Couture Version – Part II

Once all of my muslin underlining pieces were traced and cut in mirror image (so that the markings would end up next to the body) they were hand-basted to an additional underlining of silk organza. Having two layers of underlining meant I could stitch my boning channels through the layers rather than having to add separate boning channels.

bastedtoorganza

Here is my bodice all laid out in order. Looks gigantic, doesn’t it?

bodicelaidout

I then used these pieces to cut my fabric. I cut from the wrong side since my underlining pieces were in mirror image. The left and right side of my body are just a little different, something that is very noticeable in a very fitted garment. The narrow rows of parallel stitching are my boning channels.

cuttingfabric

Next, I removed each previous row of basting and hand-basted all three layers together on the stitching line.

bastetofabric

Notice that here on the center front panel, a fisheye dart was pinned out and marked. I did not stitch it in this dress but may use it on a future version.

frontboning

A few pins with your almonds, anyone?

almonds

One of the highlights of the week was dinner with Cidell. Finally, after all these years we meet! Left to right are Gretchen, Anna, Susan, Robin, Barb, Me and Cidell (photo courtesy of A Little Sewing). Great fun!

dinner

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15 Comments

Filed under Couture Boot Camp, New Look

15 responses to “New Look 6454, The Couture Version – Part II

  1. Gigi…project looks good. I need to ask about your cutting room table. Is it two tables? One? I like the wood surface. Is it old. I need a cutting table. I’d swear I’d sew more if I had a proper table to cut out patterns. Right now I rent a room at Vogue Fabrics since I cannot cannot cut fabric out on the floor.

    • Oh, those are just, ahem, “rustic” hotel banquet tables. At home I use two of those folding cutting tables from JoAnn’s. They aren’t the sturdiest things around but they are very versatile and inexpensive.

  2. Rosie

    I love the pictures showing the progress!

  3. Oh my! This is such grown-up sewing! I can see already how amazing the finished garment is going to be because of all the interior work!

  4. I have pictures of exactly the same layout from my couture bustier. This brings back such good memories!!!!

  5. I love your ‘work in progress’ posts. No matter how much you think you know you can always learn from someones else showing how they do things.Looking forward to seeing this progress!

  6. It sounds like it will be lovely when it’s all done!

  7. Kelly

    Would you please say again where you went to camp? I think it was in Baltimore? Not too far away from me… :-) Thanks! Your work on your dress is lovely; can’t wait to see it all done.

  8. LOVE the idea of using organza to create boning channels; I’m making Em a dress for her 8th Grade Semi-Formal and the corselet needs boning so I’ll try this. One question: does the lining go on top of the organza with the interlining sandwiched between the organza and the wrong side of the fashion fabric?

    • The organza and muslin are treated as one with the fashion fabric once the boning has been inserted. Then the top edge will be staystitched and the lined to the edge. If you are making a corselette in a dress with no waistline seam, it might be easier to just use two layers of cotton wrong sides together. Since my dress has a waistline (actually, slightly below) seam, I was able to incorporate everything into the bodice without a separate corselette. My waist stay will then exit through buttonholes in the lining a few inches away from the zipper. Make sense?

  9. Hello Gigi, I am very envious . What a chance to be doing this class. I will follow your progress with great interest. I have bought a Professional Buttonholer for my singer slantomatic . I just love keyhole buttonholes. I am wondering if I could ask you some questions about it as I am having a few problems and am wondering if I am missing something? Thanks Mem

    • Well, I don’t know if we have the same model machine (mine’s a 500A) but I’ll help you as best I can.

      • mem

        thanks for that . I have 301 . My problem is that I cant get anything thicker than a layer of muslin under the cloth clamp . I read about you using it on your lovely silver jacket and there is no way I could get that many layers of fabric under the clamp . I have the right needle plate and I remove the original one which clips on under 2 little discs and then push the bobbin cover back on and then when I lift the lever to raise the clothclamp or foot I have about 1/8 of an inch clearnace which seesm wrong to me . I was wondering how much clearance you have . I also seems to breaking alot of needles. When I do get the cloth in place it sews great buttonholes. Am I missing something fundamental here ??

  10. The 301 uses a completely different buttonhole attachment than the one I use on the 500 ( which is designed for zigzag machines). I have adjustable foot pressure so when I am making buttonholes on a thicker fabric I set my foot pressure to zero to allow me to slide the garment under the clamp. Once in place, I then reset my pressure to normal.