Faux Mink Jacket – Part III

After much deliberation, I decided to cut the collar on the bias. Thank you all for your thoughtful input!

biascollarnew

Doesn’t it look pretty from the back? (Lightened to show detail)

collarback

I cut and sewed the collar late last night and then padded it with some cotton batting I had left over from my quilt two years ago. When I took apart the Persian lamb/mink jacket on Saturday, I noticed that the collar was padded with lambswool (there is a lot more structure inside a fur coat than I expected!) so I thought I’d do the same. I kept the batting out of the seam allowances to reduce bulk and attached it with uneven and diagonal basting stitches. It seems like a lot of handwork but it really didn’t take long, maybe an hour. With all the handwork I’ve been doing lately, I am considering learning how to use a thimble!

padding

I cut the batting out of the foldline so that the edge wouldn’t be too thick.

foldline

The fronts are stabilized with hair canvas and I am getting ready to stitch bits of bias-cut canvas into the hem area. The hair canvas along the facing foldline gives a nice crisp edge.

interfacing

The backing of this fur is quite stable (it’s a woven) so I only taped the off-grain areas. I will also stabilize the neck edge by fusing stay tape to the lining neckline (less bulky than more twill tape).

taping

Tomorrow, I am going to experiment with pockets as I’d like to finish them before I stitch the fronts to the back. Once they are done, everything will go together quite quickly! I was hoping to finish by the weekend but I am teaching a 2-day fitting workshop Saturday and Sunday and might be too tired to do anything more until Monday.

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10 Comments

Filed under Year of the Jacket

10 responses to “Faux Mink Jacket – Part III

  1. Learn to use a thimble! You’ll look back and wonder how you ever sewed without one. I used to have what I thought was a permanent hole at the top of my middle finger from pushing that ol’ needle. It would bleed… you get the picture. Had to force myself to keep that thimble on for a few days – and now… no more sore finger. (Less messy, too.)
    Jacket’s coming along beautifully. Why is it that fur collars have padding in them, as opposed to interfacing? Always wondered, never bothered to find out.

    • I would assume that the padding acts as a soft interfacing while giving the collar a little loft. Any tips for sizing a thimble? I think I’ll stop and pick one up in the morning.

      • sewer

        I have small hands and I take a 5 or 6. I use a tailor’s thimble, which is is open at the top (you use the side of the thimble). But I think the sizing is similar.

        There’s not substitute for going to a store and trying them on. I buy them from Steinlauf and Stoller in New York, which sells loose thimbles in a box.

  2. wow. This is going to be so deluxe.
    hmmm, where /how would I work a fur coat into my wardrobe?
    I want one!!

  3. Now THAT’S what we call pad stitching!

  4. And sometimes I just use my thumbnail as a thimble to push the needle through.

    • sewer

      You can injure your fingers. My sewing teacher at FIT said she had permanent nerve damage because she did not use a thimble.

      I once helped someone baste a muslin of a coat using very heavy muslin. I didn’t have a thimble. Three days later, my fingertips still hurt.

  5. That’s really interesting about the padstitched batting on the collar. If you can bear it, I would love to hear more about the structure inside the fur coat. I bought one years ago to take apart, but I ended up wearing it.

    Re the thimble, you could try making a cylinder of leather to slip over your fingertip. That’s what I use, and it was very easy to get used to. When I can’t find it, I just make a new one.

  6. Rosie

    Gigi, a dear friend of mine was giving me tips on sewing with fur / faux fur last night. He actually mentioned padding the collar and cuff pieces as that is exactly what is done in the real fur garments. I wish I was taking your fitting class.

  7. Summerset

    This second collar is much better, it looks like it goes with the direction of the fur on the body of the jacket. Thanks for the info on the insides of the coat.