Embellished Jacket – Part I

I am really enjoying my mini-sewcation and, despite a slow start, actually accomplished quite a lot this weekend. A couple of people had asked about the sizing of this pattern and, yes, it is a tall. I had to take 2 inches out of the length of the torso and I also narrowed the shoulders by an inch. I know they are supposed to be dropped but they were a little overwhelming on my short frame. I haven’t cut the sleeves out yet but it looks like I’ll be taking 2″ out in length there as well.

The body goes together easily and quickly but, of course, I had to make it harder by flat-felling most of the seams. Not only does it look nice inside and out but the flat-felling also adds a little structure to the wool crepe. I can’t remember if I mentioned this in a previous post or not, but I prewashed and dried the fabric three times. The texture is absolutely wonderful but since I have a front-loading washer it is naturally not as fulled as it could have been in a washer with an agitator.

I added 5/8″ to all outside edges and turned it towards the trim side and hand-stitched it down. In the front where the collar turns, the trim/hem must change direction so I staystitched and clipped that spot so that all of the hemming is hidden under the trim.

hem1

hem2

Speaking of hand-sewing, I did an awful lot of it on this jacket! Normally I do very little handsewing, only when it adds something to the garment. I don’t like to do it as a work-around. In this case, machine stitching the petersham to the garment left it too stiff so I decided to attach it with a hand-felling stitch instead. Many episodes of CSI later, I’m glad I did. I should mention that the pattern calls for 2″ wide petersham and I accidentally purchased 1.5″ (forgot my glasses again!) which really worked out perfectly. I think the 2″ would have been much too heavy.

petersham

I shopped around quite a lot for trims last week. Not only did I not find anything that I really loved but, due to the yardage needed, anything decent-looking would have been cost-prohibitive. I was looking for better than decent (more like over-the-top) and those trims started at $50/yd, eek! So, I decided to use hot-fix studs which give me lots of impact, are reasonably fast to attach and quite lightweight. Plus, mitering the corners is so easy (too bad they cover up my pretty petersham miters!).

studcorner

Tomorrow I will finish attaching the studs and then cut and set the sleeves. I’m pretty pleased with this so far!

jacket

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32 Comments

Filed under Burda Style Downloads, Year of the Jacket

32 responses to “Embellished Jacket – Part I

  1. Oh my! This is absolutely stunning!

  2. Dilliander

    Can’t wait to see this finished Gigi, it looks fabulous already.

  3. Ashley

    I can’t get over how beautiful the jacket is, even unfinished.

  4. CGCouture

    Wow! You have so much patience to do all that hand stitching and THEN do all of that embellishing too! This jacket is going to be stunning when it’s finished. :-)

  5. That jacket will have some serious Wow factor. Can’t wait to see the finished work!

  6. I just found your blog and I am really excited to read more of your projects. I have a mother who sews so its a breath of fresh air to see the art still being continued.

    Mr. Goodwill Hunting

  7. Wow! That is beautiful already.

  8. Cassandra

    Wow I skimmed straight past this pattern because something about the trim put me off and made the whole thing look like a giant scarf.

    I can see what the ribbon on the plain black really show though: the beautiful cascade effect of the drape.

    Perhaps I should consider making this project without the silver establishment… it’s so elegant and versatile.

    BTW may I ask where you buy your Petersham ribbon? It’s something that I’m finding impossible to get in the stores I buy fabric (at least good quality, heavy versions). Do you buy it online?

  9. Love the studs. I will be making this jacket come winter, but to maximise my opportunities to wear will leave it unembellished.

  10. shams

    I love this, Gigi! It looks like it will be so much fun to wear!

  11. What a stunning jacket so far. I love to see the close-ups on your sewing, because your stitches and work, being so perfect, is inspirational.

  12. It’s already stunning , this is going to be fabulous.

  13. You’re going to look and feel fabulous in this!

  14. ooh, looking good!!

  15. OMG, the jacket looks fantastic. Love the trimming!

  16. Kim

    This is going to be one fabulous jacket! What is the back like? Despite it being VERY decorative I suspect that it will be a jacket for any occasion. Cant wait to see it finished.

  17. Rosie

    Gigi, I am salivating at the sight of this wonderful jacket.

  18. Mechelle

    The Jacket is looing GREAT! How big are the studs – do you buy them online or locally? I have never really seen these they are SO cool!

  19. Wow–that looks amazing so far!

  20. Yes, Gigi, you have almost finished another “Wow” jacket. I’m sure that you will enjoy wearing it and hearing all the compliments.

  21. OMG! That is so FABULOUS!

  22. summersetbanks

    Excellent jacket – the studs give it an edginess and modern feel!

  23. OMFG is what I have to say to this. What an amazing piece of work!

  24. sewsy

    Bee U Ti Full! Thanks for posting the pics of your handsewing…it’s beautiful as well! I liked seeing the pictures of the catchstitching on the duffle coat, too.
    I’m very encouraged to try it (the catchstitch) myself. You’re such an inspiration!!!

  25. Hi Gigi!
    I love your work and your blog so much that I’ve posted about it on my blog. (I’ve only just started it so I’m learning as I go along :) Check it out if you have a chance!
    http://www.hottinroofneworleans.com

  26. Mom

    Please, how did you fix the embelishments? Sometimes ago I tried to fix some of these squared ones with a usual iron, and they fell down with time…