Simplicity 4109

Sorry I’ve been absent for so long but life has been so busy the past few weeks! Not only are my classes going very well (yay! and thank you to all of my wonderful students) but I had to cut and sew the upholstery for my son’s new restaurant to boot. His soft opening was on Friday night and I’m so happy with the way the booths and chairs turned out. And, of course, I’m so proud of him to have done so much and not yet even 23 years old.

Now that the dust has settled (only temporarily as I have to decorate for Christmas!) I decided that I needed a quick and easy project before going back to my outerwear jacket. Of course, my project queue is a mile long but this cute little swing jacket from Built by Wendy caught my eye!

front

back

I used a hot pink mid-wale cotton corduroy that I bought from Kashi at Metro a few years ago. I interfaced the facings, both collars, pockets and flaps with Pam’s fabulous Pro Sheer Fusible. The pockets are cut on the bias and just wouldn’t behave (they kept twisting) so I had to fuse them. Which reminds me, lately I’ve been reading so much online about not pressing corduroy. Where in the world did that come from? There is no problem pressing (even fusing!) corduroy. I generally press it from the wrong side or steam it and brush it with my hand or a self fabric scrap from the right side. You do not need a Velva or needle board.

side

Notice that I omitted the 5th button down the front. You really do need that 1.5 space (at least!) between the last button and the hemline. The 5th button just made the jacket look homemade, IMO. And, ahem, please note that the original BBW jacket in the pattern photo only has 4 buttons with the correct amount of spacing at the bottom so I am at a loss as to why Simplicity added another button.

front

I had overlooked this pattern in the past but it is a real gem. The back neck facing (not shown) is quite large and nicely shaped, the pocket flaps and collar (there is a separate two-piece bias undercollar) are very well shaped and the sleeves go in without a hitch. The pockets are cut on the bias,

pockets

as are the sleeves.

sleeves

Of course, since I am on a mission to bind everything in sight, I bound all of my seams with a 1″ double-fold binder. I wanted some orange (I’m on an orange and hot pink kick) and found this orange/pink/purple Hoffman Bali batik in my stash, yum.

binding

I started with a size 8 and made a 3/4″ full bust, forward shoulder and sway back adjustments. I went back and forth over whether to move the horizontal dart to a vertical dart and the horizontal dart won out because it’s barely noticeable when the jacket is being worn. A vertical dart in corduroy is a bit more fussy since you want to avoid a wiggly line down the front.

Okay, now it’s back to work on the outerwear jacket in between getting my Christmas decorations up and planning my Thanksgiving menu!

Yes, I know this is jacket #11 (woohoo) but I have at least three more jackets that I want to complete before years’ end! And, lucky me, Ann found a chiffon to match the red charmeuse for my Milly blouse so I have to squeeze that in before the big party!

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34 Comments

Filed under Simplicity, Year of the Jacket

34 responses to “Simplicity 4109

  1. Your jacket is so beautiful. I just love all shades of pink. I’ve never worked with or bought a Wendy pattern, but after seeing yours I think this one is worth a try.

  2. Very pretty jacket.

  3. Great jacket! The color is amazing and the Hong Kong finish is lovely!

  4. Els

    Your new hot pink jacket turned out great as always, funky buttons too.

  5. Wow, hot color for a cool jacket. Love this one!!

  6. Gosh, I LOVE the pockets and flaps cut on the bias!! Such a beautiful detail and I love how the wale reflects the light when cut like that! Definitely worth the tussle ;) I also love the interior binding. I must make a ‘note to self’ to do that more often!

  7. Oh, wow, so beautiful, Gig. I have this pattern languishing in my collection….must.tackle.it.sometime!

  8. Terry

    So glad to see you back. All your projects are beautiful. I don’t know how you find the time. Thank you for sharing

  9. Vicki

    Such a cute jacket. Fun colour.

  10. I smolder a bit every time I see your gorgeous binding!

  11. Beautiful. Funny I imagined you as a very young woman, not the mother of a 23 year old!

  12. Another great looking jacket! The color is great.

  13. Marie Roche

    Thank you for discussing the use of corduroy. I have stayed away from using this fabric because I have read how difficult it is to use it and all the precautions one must take to sew sucessfully with it. Your comments are so practical and useful, I appreciate it. I am new to your blog and have found much information that has helped me with my sewing. Thank You

    Marie

  14. You have another great jacket with special details! Thanks for the info on corduroy.

  15. Fabulous!!! I too have no idea how the “don’t press corduroy” thing came about. I sew (and press!) corduroy with great results. Now I’m convinced I have to go to my industrial dealer and buy a couple of binder attachments for my Juki.

    Here’s a tip I learned from a shearling dealer. One of the best things to use for “brushing” napped fabrics like corduroy, suede and shearlings is plain old Bounty towels. They do a great job!

  16. WoW… totally gorgeous jacket.

  17. Colleen P.

    I’ve never had a problem pressing corduroy or velvet, I just used an extremely old towel on the ironing board-worked like a charm! LOL! When I worked for a fabric store, I managed to get a velvet board on clearance and now I use that for small pieces, but for big ones I still just use a towel and lots of steam. If I’m pressing yardage, I fold it so the wale is on the inside, I’m just careful not to put a crease in it, I shift it over a bit to get the center.

    I’m with you Gigi, can’t imagine where that came from. You have to press everything you sew, imagine how awful things would look if you didn’t!

  18. Rosie

    Oh how I love the color of this jacket! Gigi you never stop amazing me. I hope you are not using the remnants for Winnie.

  19. sewforward

    Great jacket – love the color.

  20. Summerset

    Very cute! Regarding the pressing, while it takes a little more care than ironing plain old cotton, I think not ironing/pressing would not give as nice of a finished product as pressing it would.

  21. Heather

    Complete SWEETNESS, what yummy colour and style?
    Love it!

  22. Stephanie

    Love it! Love the style, love the colour, love the binding- and the bias cut sleeves and pockets- what will you wear this with?
    You inspire me with your profesionally sewn clothing made at home.

  23. That is an absolute beauty! Love the bias and how it looks so rich. Bindings are exquisite. Love everything about this jacket.

  24. Sigh. It is to die. I love your binding everything in sight — if I put things in your sightline will you bind them for me? ;)

  25. jennifer

    Love your new jacket, Gigi! How do you find the time?? I just keep grading, and grading papers.
    I always love seeing what you are up to making. :)

  26. RobbieK

    I MUST HAVE one of those binder thingies…..Maybe if I sell one (or maybe two) of my machines I could justify getting a commercial with the attachment–

  27. Beginning Saturday (20th) JA Fabrics has Simplicity’s on sale/$1.99 ea. Will purchase the pattern, as I have some hot pink wool which would be perfect. Will probably have to fashion a lining – right???………Lydia…….Thanks to you, I have a pretty good wardrobe!

  28. Vibeke

    Utterly fab. And I’m sure the color looks just fab with your dark hair as well.

  29. Fantastic jacket. The color is awesome!

  30. Your workmanship is beautiful! I love the boutique surprise detailing of the pretty bound seams.

  31. Oh my – what a fabulous jacket. Beautiful work Gigi!!

  32. Susannah

    Fantastique! LOVE the colour!!! Please could you do a tutorial on how to bind using your attachment a 90 degree outside corner?

  33. I absolutely love your bound seams. We’ve all become so used to sergers, that we forget how wonderful clothing could be before we ever had them!

  34. Dei

    Three kinds of hotness! Love this jacket, the color and your binding is envy producing.