Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Part II

My goal for today was to finish the pintucks, bind the neckline and finish the sleeve placket. Mission accomplished!

The instructions have you finish the sleeve placket by making a double-turned hem, which looks very home-made, IMO. Since this is a blouse (vs. a shirt) a simple bound placket is better and easier. I cheated and bound mine by machine with the 1.25″ binder. I should have used a narrower binder but I didn’t feel like swapping out all the parts. It’s a bit wider than it should be but I think it looks fine. I used the same width to bind the neckline (I warned you I’d be binding everything in sight, didn’t I?).

placket

And now we get to the trouble I have with Burda. Most of the magazine patterns start at size 36. I need a 34. It’s only one size but it is amazing all of the little adjustments I have to make above the bust. The neckline, shoulder and upper chest of the 36 are always too wide. Even after my initial adjustments, I had to make more during sewing. I added two more pintucks to both the front and the back to draw the shoulders in more. I also had to take the shoulder seams up by 5/8″ so that I wouldn’t be arrested for indecent exposure. Consequently, I’ll need to lower the armscye 5/8″ and I can already see that the shoulder seam is going to have to come in a little more.

frontneckline

backneckline

You can see that this blouse has a lot of volume. I can easily take in 4″ from the bust down and still retain enough volume for it not to look skimpy.

fullfront

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9 Comments

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9 responses to “Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Part II

  1. I think I’m more than a little envious of how deep your fabric collection is. You keep bringing out these treasures and sewing up the most amazing pieces. Wait, I need to take a breathe here because the gorgeousness is knocking me unconscious! *LOL* Can’t wait to see this one one finished!

  2. I love this exuberant silk print! It inspires me to tackle those in my stash. They stare me down at each new season LOL

  3. When you bind the neckline, you’re binding it in the flat, going across one shoulder seam? How do you connect the beginning and ending of the binding?

  4. I LOVE that you bind everything. I have got to get myself one of those feet. It just makes the finish so professional.

  5. Lauren

    I’m so happy you made this shirt up. I’ve been loving it, but a little nervous that it might be too blouse-y. But your version looks great!

  6. Cindy

    It’s lovely, Gigi. I have the same sizing problem with Burda that you do. It’s a pain to work with them sometimes.

  7. Debora

    I love you site. What a seamstress you are…I am so envious!

    Can you tell me what dress form you use?

    • Thank you! “Use” is probably stretching it a bit as I only use her to hold works in progress and to photograph garments. She’s an ancient Dritz My Double.