My goal for today was to finish the pintucks, bind the neckline and finish the sleeve placket. Mission accomplished!
The instructions have you finish the sleeve placket by making a double-turned hem, which looks very home-made, IMO. Since this is a blouse (vs. a shirt) a simple bound placket is better and easier. I cheated and bound mine by machine with the 1.25″ binder. I should have used a narrower binder but I didn’t feel like swapping out all the parts. It’s a bit wider than it should be but I think it looks fine. I used the same width to bind the neckline (I warned you I’d be binding everything in sight, didn’t I?).
And now we get to the trouble I have with Burda. Most of the magazine patterns start at size 36. I need a 34. It’s only one size but it is amazing all of the little adjustments I have to make above the bust. The neckline, shoulder and upper chest of the 36 are always too wide. Even after my initial adjustments, I had to make more during sewing. I added two more pintucks to both the front and the back to draw the shoulders in more. I also had to take the shoulder seams up by 5/8″ so that I wouldn’t be arrested for indecent exposure. Consequently, I’ll need to lower the armscye 5/8″ and I can already see that the shoulder seam is going to have to come in a little more.
You can see that this blouse has a lot of volume. I can easily take in 4″ from the bust down and still retain enough volume for it not to look skimpy.