Burda Style 08/2010 #112

Yes, I am working on my big-bow skirt but after seeing Ann’s version of this top last week I was inspired to whip up one of my own! I used a size 34 and made adjustments for a full bust, sway back and forward shoulder.

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The outer fabric is a brown rayon/poly/lycra stretch lace I had purchased from Textile Studios a few years ago. The inner fabric is a rose bamboo/lycra from Fabric Mart (it’s not as peachy as it looks in the 2nd photo). I bought several colors of this bamboo knit and just love it!

brownlace

I bound both necklines with an 1.25″ binder. Using the binder requires one shoulder to be left open and binding the neckline flat (check any of your RTW tees and you’ll see what I mean). To balance out the bulk, I left the right shoulder open on the under layer and the left shoulder open on the upper layer. Otherwise, I would have had a large lump on the left side.

brownlaceneckline

You’ll notice that I didn’t do the twisted hem. I really liked it but didn’t like it on me. So, I took in the sides, shortened both layers (the inner layer is 1″ longer) and hemmed them separately. I like it much better on me this way. Even if you don’t like this top, the neckline is fabulous and should be traced off for future use.

Fabric has been selected for the Big Bow Skirt and I was sidetracked into tracing off this peasant blouse with matching scarf from the 08/2010 issue. It’s the cover blouse and Bryan remarked that it looked like me so what could I do?

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In light of the recent loss of an important piece of a TNT pattern, I’ve decided to get more organized. I mean, I am organized but I do tend to let patterns pile up a bit before I put them away. I needed some way keep everything together but out of my way. Yesterday, I was at my friend’s shop and he asked if I wanted these old literature racks because he was tossing them. Perfect! I hung one on the door of Sewing Room #1 to hold patterns that need to be filed away,

rack1

and the other hangs on the wall of Sewing Room #2 to hold patterns that I’m currently working on or are in the queue. This isn’t the best location because of the light switch but it was the best available. If it doesn’t work out, I’ll hang it on the door. Hopefully, this will at least keep everything together and keep my counters clear.

rack2

8/26/10 ETA: I didn’t mention that I copied Ann’s construction method. If you click on the link to Ann’s blog you can check it out. Basically, you are making two separate shirts and then stitching the sleeve to both at the same time. Ann’s tee is attached at the hem (she made the twisted version) and the armscye. Mine is attached at the armscye only.

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31 Comments

Filed under Burda WOF, Sewing Studio

31 responses to “Burda Style 08/2010 #112

  1. Meredith P

    You are the most organized person I “know” (in real life and virtually). I love how you handled the binding bulk on the two layers. You’re always on top of things like that.

  2. The top is really cute. I like how you used the lace/knit combo. However, now I’m gonna have to buy me some of those magazine holders. What a great storage idea for patterns that are presently being used!

  3. Mechelle

    Is the binder you are using the kind that leaves a raw edge on the back? It looks so nice and non-bulky. The binder I have does a double fold and it seems a bit bulky. Funniest thing about it is I use a Pfaff as my primary SM, and it doesn’t have the holes to attach a binder so I blue taped it to my machine /cabinet – works like a charm!

    • Hey, whatever works! This particular one is a double-fold binder. I only use a single-fold binder on my coverstitch machine.

  4. Rosie

    Lovely rendition of the double layer shirt. OMG 2 sewing rooms? One of your sewing rooms is bigger than my studio. I am so in love with your binding. Can you say jealous? :-)

  5. After seeing Ann’s version of the Burda Style top, I picked out my fabric to make it myself. Your version looks awesome. I like how the lace looks over the rose bamboo.

  6. kbenco

    I really liked Ann’s version of this, but yours makes me very happy, because I have some stretch lace and can copy it straight away. I love it!

  7. I love the idea of the literature racks – Office Depot sells those too, I think. Great top – I may steal your idea of the stretch lace top layer!

  8. These tops were my picks too. Unfortunately the mag hasn’t hit our shores yet. Absolutely love the red under black lace.

  9. Belinda (Sew-4-Fun)

    Love your top! I’ve earmarked this pattern too but I wasn’t sure about fabric choice. After seeing your lace/bamboo combination you have given me lots of ideas.

  10. Susannah

    Super tops… Impeccable as usual! As an aside- are you still in love with your Reliable boiler iron? My gravity feed is dying and am wondering whether to take the plunge…

    • Oh yes, I am! I love, love, love it! It is so much better than my old gravity feed iron. The steam will blow your hair back. :-)

  11. danvillegirl

    Love this top! What a great look with lace knit and contrasting knit underneath. That was inspirational.

  12. jennifer

    Your tops look wonderful as usual! I just love how they complement each other so beautifully. Great idea about the literature racks.

  13. Wow I’ve really got to make that top, after seeing your and Anns version, even if we are coming into Spring here in Oz!

  14. Love the lace and knit combination! And the non-twisted hem is perfect. I must make this top.

  15. Your fabric choices are brilliant. I recently made a lace overlay pencil skirt and I was wondering how I could use the stretchy lace I’ve been seeing. Here is the perfect example. Thanks for the inspiration!

  16. Noreen

    Love, love that top. I’ve been looking at that bamboo knit. How does it compare to rayon/lycra?

    • This particular one is a bit beefier than most of the rayon/lycras in my stash. I haven’t bought any this year so I don’t know if it’s the same. It was very easy to work with.

  17. I’m glad to see another rendition of this! That was the only pattern in the whole issue that jumped out at me this month, and your version is lovely– I like the effect of the lace over the solid. I also like your adaptation of how you did the hem–the twisty balloon–looking hem was the one thing I found iffy on that, since I generally don’t need extra volume around my hips. Your layered hem has sold me. One construction question– are the two layers attached anywhere? Since they’re not at the hem anymore.

  18. Helen K

    I love your version of this top. You should be sewing for pattern companies because your choices are always so spot on. You are inspiring, Gigi!
    Helen

  19. Thunderpaws Threads

    Grape minds think alike. I have 2 of the 3 patterns facing front & center on the rack on Sewing Room #1.

    The top looks very cute too!

  20. TOS

    Beautiful results!

    I’m intrigued about the bias binder foot. I haven’t used one, so I watched some videos online and now I want one. But I’m curious about using it with knits, as you did. Using the non-binder method, I cut the neckline binding smaller than the neckline and stretch the binding as I sew, to avoid a gaping/sagging neckline. Do you stretch the binding as it goes into the foot? Or does this method prevent the sagging neckline without needing to stretch the binding?

    • This is quite different from a bias-binding foot. This is a binding set (feeder, foot, plate) that attaches to my commercial machine. There is a guide arm that the binding is fed into and you feed it through more guides to create additional tension which stretches the binding as it goes through the folder. If you are using a foot on a home machine you’ll have to get a feel for how much tension to manually put on the binding as it feeds through. I usually cut an extra strip so that I can run a test since each fabric is different.

  21. I too love the lace you have used and it gave me an idea for some black stretch lace I have which I’ve not used. I just need to choose some fabric to be the under layer.

  22. Summerset

    Looks great – love it with the straight hem. No one needs a bubble at the butt.

  23. Your version is much better for my pear shaped body. I love the necklines on this T and I have some lovely lacey knits for the outer layer. Perfect transitional T. Thanks for the inspiration.