Monthly Archives: August 2010

Burda Style 02/2009 #119 – Finished!

All done but the hem, anyway! This is such a pretty style. It is simple but the sleeves make it different and special. I did have a couple of issues, though. First, the neckline was too high and made me look like I had a big, heaving bosom. It’s hard to tell from the photos but I actually took the neckline down by over an inch, ending about 5/8″ above the yoke seam tapering to nothing about 1″ in front of the shoulder. It’s a much more flattering look for me and I’m happy I took the time to “make it work”.

Here’s the before:

originalfront

Phyllis suggested I use the pink section of the fabric for my neckline binding and, I have to say, she was so right. I like it much better!

The after:

newfront

The other issue I had was with the sleeve. For some odd reason (which I didn’t notice until after I had finished cutting), the inner sleeve is the same length as the outer sleeve. For it to bubble properly it really needs to be a little shorter than the outer sleeve so before I make my dress I will lengthen the outer sleeve .25″ and shorten the inner sleeve by the same amount. Also, the instructions have you understitching the seam allowances to the undersleeve. I didn’t do that because I didn’t want to stiffen the seam and lose some of the drape of the sleeve.

I can show you the fabric I am going to use for the dress now that my cut has been secured. It’s Italian Rayon Florida Knit – Jewel Tones from Gorgeous Fabrics. Hurry, it’s on sale and there are only a few yards left!

floralrayon

What’s next? Well, tomorrow is September 1st (how did that happen?) and I’m a little freaked out because I still have 5 jackets to complete by the end of the year. Aye! And then there’s the Big Bow Skirt and the dress from the September Burda Style and the Knip Mode skirt and, and, and. It’s official: there is never enough sewing time.

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Burda Style 02/2009 #119 – Part I

Yeah, I know I’m supposed to be working on the Big Bow Skirt. I’m on the fence about my fabric choice, sigh. Instead, I decided to tidy up a bit (so that I’d quit obsessing over the skirt!) and I found this top/dress that I had traced off last summer. I have found the perfect fabric for the dress at Gorgeous Fabrics (no, I’m not going to show you lest you buy it all!) so I thought I’d do a quick test of the top to check the fit.

dress

top

I am such a sucker for prints like this (as if you didn’t know)! I believe this came from Gorgeous Fabrics. I cut one section at a time, laying everything out on the floor as I went along. I cut the upper bodice a several times before deciding on this particular layout (I use my camera as 2nd set of eyes). The neckline will be bound with the green.

0209119front

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Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Final

All done! As I thought, I had to take the shoulders in an additional 1/2″ and lower the armscye 5/8″ (to make up for the deeper seam I had to take at the shoulder). The back was also too wide (and I have a broad back!) so I shaved a little bit off of the back armscye. I ended up removing 4″ of ease at the hemline, tapering to nothing just above the waist. It’s still quite voluminous, as you can see!

front

This blouse will be tucked in so it doesn’t have a whole lot of appeal on the dressform. This can really be dressed up or down as it would work equally well with jeans or a pencil skirt. I absolutely love all the pintucks even though they do get a bit lost in the print. They show up a lot better in real life than in the photos. The pintucks on the sleeve are especially pretty.

sleevetucks

Here it is with the scarf used as a sash. I cut it as instructed but found it really long and ended up cutting 12″ off the length.

beltedfront

All of the edges were narrow-hemmed by machine with a 1/4″ rolled hem foot, as was the bottom of the blouse. Attachments are such a huge time-saver, get them out and practice! :-) If you need a refresher, check out the tutorial I posted at the Sewing Divas a few years ago. It really is easy as can be!

scarf

And, I found the perfect little blue button in my stash. This came from Maggi’s For Fine Fabrics at least a dozen years ago. I always love a little bit of sparkle!

button

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Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Part II

My goal for today was to finish the pintucks, bind the neckline and finish the sleeve placket. Mission accomplished!

The instructions have you finish the sleeve placket by making a double-turned hem, which looks very home-made, IMO. Since this is a blouse (vs. a shirt) a simple bound placket is better and easier. I cheated and bound mine by machine with the 1.25″ binder. I should have used a narrower binder but I didn’t feel like swapping out all the parts. It’s a bit wider than it should be but I think it looks fine. I used the same width to bind the neckline (I warned you I’d be binding everything in sight, didn’t I?).

placket

And now we get to the trouble I have with Burda. Most of the magazine patterns start at size 36. I need a 34. It’s only one size but it is amazing all of the little adjustments I have to make above the bust. The neckline, shoulder and upper chest of the 36 are always too wide. Even after my initial adjustments, I had to make more during sewing. I added two more pintucks to both the front and the back to draw the shoulders in more. I also had to take the shoulder seams up by 5/8″ so that I wouldn’t be arrested for indecent exposure. Consequently, I’ll need to lower the armscye 5/8″ and I can already see that the shoulder seam is going to have to come in a little more.

frontneckline

backneckline

You can see that this blouse has a lot of volume. I can easily take in 4″ from the bust down and still retain enough volume for it not to look skimpy.

fullfront

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Burda Style 08/2010 #120 – Part I

The worst is over, I have finished all of the pintucks! Yay! I do love pintucks, just not making them. As you can see, I thread traced each fold line. Not the fastest method but it was the best and most accurate way this time.

pintucks

This is an Italian silk crepe de chine that I bought at Maggi’s For Fine Fabrics in Boca Raton years ago. I had a coordinating linen jacquard that was made into a jacket back when big shoulder pads were still in. It went to Goodwill a long time ago! As much as I love to buy new fabric, it is actually fun to finally find just the right pattern for some of these old pieces.

Now to begin the boring and time-consuming task of pulling all of the threads to the back side (twenty-eight times!).

ETA: Thank you lin3arossa for reminding me about single-thread pintucks! The much-revered Kenneth King has an excellent tutorial up on the Threads website here. I haven’t sewn single-thread pintucks in many years and had completely forgotten about the technique. Doh!

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Burda Style 08/2010 #112

Yes, I am working on my big-bow skirt but after seeing Ann’s version of this top last week I was inspired to whip up one of my own! I used a size 34 and made adjustments for a full bust, sway back and forward shoulder.

082010112

The outer fabric is a brown rayon/poly/lycra stretch lace I had purchased from Textile Studios a few years ago. The inner fabric is a rose bamboo/lycra from Fabric Mart (it’s not as peachy as it looks in the 2nd photo). I bought several colors of this bamboo knit and just love it!

brownlace

I bound both necklines with an 1.25″ binder. Using the binder requires one shoulder to be left open and binding the neckline flat (check any of your RTW tees and you’ll see what I mean). To balance out the bulk, I left the right shoulder open on the under layer and the left shoulder open on the upper layer. Otherwise, I would have had a large lump on the left side.

brownlaceneckline

You’ll notice that I didn’t do the twisted hem. I really liked it but didn’t like it on me. So, I took in the sides, shortened both layers (the inner layer is 1″ longer) and hemmed them separately. I like it much better on me this way. Even if you don’t like this top, the neckline is fabulous and should be traced off for future use.

Fabric has been selected for the Big Bow Skirt and I was sidetracked into tracing off this peasant blouse with matching scarf from the 08/2010 issue. It’s the cover blouse and Bryan remarked that it looked like me so what could I do?

082010120

In light of the recent loss of an important piece of a TNT pattern, I’ve decided to get more organized. I mean, I am organized but I do tend to let patterns pile up a bit before I put them away. I needed some way keep everything together but out of my way. Yesterday, I was at my friend’s shop and he asked if I wanted these old literature racks because he was tossing them. Perfect! I hung one on the door of Sewing Room #1 to hold patterns that need to be filed away,

rack1

and the other hangs on the wall of Sewing Room #2 to hold patterns that I’m currently working on or are in the queue. This isn’t the best location because of the light switch but it was the best available. If it doesn’t work out, I’ll hang it on the door. Hopefully, this will at least keep everything together and keep my counters clear.

rack2

8/26/10 ETA: I didn’t mention that I copied Ann’s construction method. If you click on the link to Ann’s blog you can check it out. Basically, you are making two separate shirts and then stitching the sleeve to both at the same time. Ann’s tee is attached at the hem (she made the twisted version) and the armscye. Mine is attached at the armscye only.

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Loose Ends – Final

Yay, the last two tops are done and hanging in my closet! It always feels good to finish up a few UFOs. These are modified versions of OOP Kwik-Sew 2845, both in rayon/lycra. The first fabric is from Bestonlinefabrics (link in the sidebar). I LOVE the print!

2845roseprint

This pretty solid came from Lucy’s Fabrics before Laura stopped selling fabric. Another one I wish I’d bought more of, sigh.

2845berry

I’m going to work out now and then hopefully get started on that beautiful Burda Style skirt! Since it’s a tall size, I’m interested to see how much length I have to take off…

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