McCall’s 5860 – Part III

I did manage to squeeze in a few hours of sewing time today and got pretty far along on the jacket. The back has been sewn:

back

as have the fronts (how much does this look like a Duct Tape Dummy?):

frontnopocket

Since I am pretty curvy up top, I cut the pockets on the bias so that they would be better able to follow the contours of my body. I have done this with jean jackets in the past and it’s always worked out really well. To shape the pocket, I press it over my tailor’s ham and allow it to cool. In this picture, you can see the thread tracing I used to mark the flap placement. I rarely thread trace but nothing else would show up well enough on the right side of this fabric.

pressingpocket

Here it is back on Ethel. I will save the pocket flaps until later because I need to select buttons and make buttonholes before they are sewn on.

frontwithpocket

I also finished one of the sleeves, which has the traditional jean jacket placket – very easy!

sleeve

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12 Comments

Filed under McCall's, Year of the Jacket

12 responses to “McCall’s 5860 – Part III

  1. Coming along very nicely, I might say. I love to watch the progress of your garments.

  2. This is really looking good. I need to remember your technique using a bias pocket.

  3. This is looking so special-nice idea with the pockets. I’ll have to “steal” that idea for my fall jackets.

  4. Loving the progress on this and those bias pockets are just stunning.

  5. Lorelle

    I’m enjoying watching your progress on this. The bias pocket is a good idea.

  6. Rosie

    Have I told you that I love your work? If not, I do. I really enjoy watching the progress of the construction and you have so may nifty tips. I love the one about cutting the pocket on the bias to cover the ample parts. I anxiously await the finished garment.

  7. Meredith P

    Great idea on the bias pocket over “curved” areas. Filing that one away…

    I have to admit, I thought that was the wrong side of the fabric when you first showed us. :-)

  8. TOS

    How does the traditional jean jacket placket differ from shirt sleeve plackets?

    • A jean jacket’s placket is generally simply an opening in the seam. The lower seam is left open and narrow hems are made to finish the edges.

  9. vernonfashionstudio

    Wow, this will be a very striking jacket!

    Thanks for the breast pocket information. I too am curvy up top so I just don’t do breast pockets. But I like your bias idea that makes the pocket lay better. It is worth trying.

    Linda T

  10. Marianne Isaacs

    Hello, I love your pocket idea as I am also “curvy”
    I also wanted to tell you how great your tutorial about sleeve plackets has been for me . Its a fantastic method and thankyou so much for sharing it.

  11. Auntie Allyn

    Oooh la la, this is going to be just fabulous . . . can’t wait until the finished product is unveiled!