Simplicity 2443 – Part VII

I am on a mission to finish this jacket this week. It’s already the end of April and this is only my 3rd jacket! Since jacket #4 is from the same pattern (in yummy embroidered white linen) I can hopefully make up some time. I’ll tell you, every time I try this jacket on I fall more in love with it. It will work with pants, dresses, skirts – even shorts.

I set the sleeves in today. Ordinarily, I would finish the cuffs before setting the sleeves but I have a feeling I might want to shorten the sleeves a wee bit. Sometimes it’s just hard to tell until it’s all together, you know?

2443front

Since this jacket is unlined I wanted to bind the armscye for a nice, clean look. After trimming 1/4″ off the armscye, I cut bias 1.25″ wide and stitched it on RS together in a 1/4″ seam. Wrap the binding over the seam allowances and stitch in the ditch to secure. Since bias doesn’t ravel there is no need to add bulk with an inside fold. Note that I didn’t join the binding into a circle. I simply folded back the binding at the starting point.

stitching

ditchstitch

After securing, trim away the excess with applique shears and press.

trimming

I think this looks so much nicer in an unlined jacket than overlocking, don’t you?

armscye

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17 Comments

Filed under Simplicity, Year of the Jacket

17 responses to “Simplicity 2443 – Part VII

  1. Colleen P.

    I think you’re right on that sleeve length-it just looks too long, doesn’t it? Once you put the cuff on it’s going to be just past your elbow, which is just a wee bit too 80’s!

    I LOVE the binding of the armscye and am ashamed to admit I would never have thought of it. It really does look so much nicer than just a serged seam.

  2. Beautiful! Thanks for showing us the inside!

  3. sewingelle

    The binding looks great. Thanks for the tip about not needing to turn it under. I would not have thought of that.. but you are right! and less bulk. Very clever! thats why I love sewing blogs!!

  4. ibislupe

    Thank You For This!! I have putting off an unlined jacket pattern because I didn’t want just overlocked seams. I never would of thought of this either! Looks great!!

  5. Linda

    Beautiful jacket, and the color is stunning.

  6. MaryEllen

    The bias finished armhole seam is great. I never finish any seam that can be seen by the serger or overlocking. An unlined jacket will always be seen on the inside. That why we have so many beautiful seam finishes. The jacket is lovely and looks professional.

  7. Love this jacket, so different,yet chic. Love your special touches of binding an did you do mock felled seams. Since you so busy and don’t give classes anymore…maybe a cd with your techniques. I would be first on list…Just my wish list. Miss your classes so……

    • Linda, I was thinking of you yesterday when I used some of the stationery you gave me! I’m going to be teaching at Cynthia’s again. Any requests?

      • OMG you made my day, I am doing the happy dance, Thank you, Thank you,I have just got back in to sewing , hubby and I have been on road for about 2yrs we moved and now back here , so all I was doing was quilting ,1/4″ on my small machine.. so I feel like I’m learning all over. I had a notebook with all my notes from your prior classes that I was reading last night, what karma, Ok now to control myself.. anything you teach is great…AS long as its garment sewing and Im on the list. :)

  8. Such lovely, neat bias binding. And I think you are wise indeed to wait and see how the sleeves look before hemming. Sometimes you just never can tell.

  9. Auntie Allyn

    Looks so lovely . . . adore the fabric!!!

  10. Gorgeous–the binding does look much better than overlocking.

  11. Elaray

    I love that purple fabric!!! The binding in the armscye looks very classy.

  12. I almost always bind armholes in unlined garments. I agree – it looks much more “finished” than a serged seam

  13. Lindsay T

    It is a cute jacket, right? I think I want to make the vest version. Maybe lengthen the bodice a tad.

  14. vernonfashionstudio

    That is my favorite seam finish. It is so neat and clean.

    Linda T

  15. Thanks for the post on this pattern. I recently purchased this pattern (not sure when I’ll tackle it) but I appreciate all the info.