Marrakesh Pants #3

I finally finished my 3rd pair of HP Marrakesh Pants – I looove this pattern! I’ve had this piece of sueded Tencel gauze in my stash for at least 4 years. It came from Cynthia’s Fine Fabrics and was originally intended for a skirt. It has a crinkled texture and a nice, heavy drape. I made sure to press all the crinkles out before cutting. If you’ve ever worn anything made of gauze you know how your body heat will cause it to bag out very unattractively because your body is actually “ironing” out the creases. I also over-fitted these, taking an additional 1″ out in width through the waist and hip area because I know they will stretch with wearing.

pant

I’m not a huge fan of contrast facings (not a criticism, they’re just not me) but my fabric is kind of heavy and self-fabric would have been too bulky. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any solid fabric that blended so I used this cotton/lycra shirting. I’m not really crazy about it but no one will see it and it is a casual pant, after all. I intend to wear these with a white tank or tee and flat sandals.

Once again, I did not use the pocket and this time I skipped the drawstring as well. I love drawstrings but my fabric was too heavy for self-fabric ties and I wasn’t able to find any suitable substitute. Since this is a “real” waistband, I interfaced with Pro Sheer Fusible and used fusible straight tape to stabilize the upper edge.

waiststay

Speaking of straight tape, I also used it to stabilize the bias area of the crotch. I hate nothing worse than a saggy bottom so I use the straight tape in all of my pants to maintain the curve. You can also use twill tape or lining selvage but fusible tape is most convenient. I always lay the pattern on the fabric to make sure nothing has stretched or shifted before I press the tape on.

crotchtape

Once finished, the pants seemed a bit plain without the drawstring so I decided to add cargo pockets on both sides. I made the pocket 5″ wide and 6″ tall and added 1/4″ seam allowances and a 1.25″ hem allowance at the top (I wanted to make sure that the button would be sewn through two layers). The flap is 5.25″ wide and 2″ tall. I used 1/4″ seam allowances at the sides and bottom and 5/8″ at the top. I know the stitching looks wonky in the photo but that’s just the crinkles in the fabric.

pocket

I used the Armani pocket flap technique I learned from Louise Cutting many years ago. It’s very neat and flat. Basically, the flap is stitched into it’s final (down) position with a 1/4″ seam allowance and then pressed up and restitched so that all raw edges are encased and no stitching shows on the outside.

flap

Because I wanted the pocket to be soft, I only used interfacing in the hem allowance (mainly because of the button). The flap is not interfaced. To help me figure out the placement I simply put the pants on and pinned the pocket where I thought it looked best.

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33 Comments

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33 responses to “Marrakesh Pants #3

  1. I like the details you show. In your first picture, how did you get the contrast to enclose the top of the zipper so neatly under the hook?

  2. Meredith P

    Nice! I’m about to make my first pair/muslin out of some old paisley rayon. Who knows, I might be able to wear them out of the house.

  3. It looks wonderful. Your work is so neat. And I have to say I kind of like the contrasting facing :-)

  4. I am loving your variations on the Marrekesh pants and all the detailed pictures you’re sharing. Each pair is gorgeous!

  5. Great tips! I like the pants, too.

  6. Each version of these pants seems nicer than the one before. Thanks for sharing all the lovely details too.

  7. SewingLibrarian

    Thanks for the info on the pocket flap! I will try that – yours looks excellent.
    Linda

  8. Belinda (sew4Fun)

    Nice pants! Thanks for sharing all the details. I’m glad to hear this pattern works with a normal waistband too as I’m not a big fan of elastic waists.

  9. Cute! I hope you love wearing them.

  10. What kind of interfacing should I use for a waistband? Should I also use the straight tape like you did? I also need interfacing for shirt collars and cuffs. The more I try to learn the more I get confused haha. Thanks for always being willing to help.

    • Brad, I use Pro Sheer Fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply on most everything (link in the sidebar at right). On shirts I use it on upper/under collar, inner/outer band and both cuff pieces. You only need the straight tape for a faced waist or a contoured waistband because both are inclined to stretch at the top edge. You don’t need it in a plain, straight waistband.

  11. Lovely pants once again. You do lovely work.

  12. You may not have liked the contrast facings but I love them! Thanks for all the tips and these are another great pair of pants!

  13. Gigi
    Great tip on the pockets!

    Question on the stay tape in the pants. do you use the tape on both sides or just once in the crotch. I think this is a technique I want to add, especially for summer weight pants.

  14. Janine

    I LOVE the contrast!

  15. Summerset

    Excellent tips – especially the stabilization of the bottom of the crotch curve. Thanks!

  16. Tina J

    I have a question-you have sold me on the pattern BTW, what do you use to trace the pattern with and what kind of paper do you use to trace the pattern on?

    Thanks, Tina

    • Tina, I use examining table paper to trace off my patterns. It’s pretty cheap when purchased by the case and lasts a very long time. If you decide to give it a try make sure you buy the smooth variety vs. the crepe. It’s available through any local medical supply but I purchased my last case for even less $$ on Ebay. Once I have all the fit issues worked out, I make a permanent pattern with manila paper (available from South Star Supply). HTH!

  17. These are so cool! I love your contrasting fabric. And thanks so much for the tape tip.

  18. It looks like a great pattern, and it can be sporty as well as a bit fancy!
    Great job!
    Micki

  19. Chor Yin

    Hi, all your variations are so nice. Thanks for sharing your sewing tips!

  20. Pat

    Great looking pants. I will definitely have to get this pattern!

  21. Gigi…great looking pants :)
    I really need to get going on mine…love the fit of my muslin..needed almost no tweaks !

    • Isn’t it amazing? Trudy’s crotch curve is magical! Love to admire my derriere when I wear these pants. :-) Pair #4 is in the works already.

  22. I need to make these pants! The pattern is sitting here. Your sewing details are always so perfect and really go a long way to making a simple garment stand out. How did you alter the pant to not use the drawstring?

    • I just closely fitted the pant and waistband as I sewed. I also interfaced the waistband for extra body and omitted the buttonholes for the drawstring. Very easy to do as you go without making any alterations to the pattern.

  23. Beautiful pants- I hope one day I can sew half as well as you do :) Love the hint for the Armani pockets!

  24. Cheryl

    I agree with Kate S. You are the neatest seamstress I have ever seen. I think I need to slow down and trim more.I will be checking out your site more often. Thanks for posting your projects.

  25. I’ve a lot to learn when I’m looking to your finition, you could nearly wear this trousers on the back side!

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